From my tumblr account. Posted way back, when I was dreaming about a moment like this.

"IT’S THAT HEIGHTENED SENSE OF AWARENESS… 
AND YOU FEEL YOUR GUT LITERALLY LIFT UP INSIDE OF YOU AS YOU BREATHE IN DEEP AND POP UP OFF YOUR BOARD. 
AT THAT MOMENT, NOTHING ELSE IN THE WORLD MATTERS BUT YOU, YOUR BOARD AND THE WATER BELOW YOU. 
LIFE, AS YOU KNOW IT, IS PERFECT. 
EVERY SECOND IS PERFECT.

JUST LIKE YOUR FIRST KISS… 

AGAIN AND AGAIN. 

I THINK THAT’S WHAT GETTING STOKED IS ALL ABOUT. 

IT’S LIKE FALLING IN LOVE."

- Live like there's no tomorrow. Love like it's your last.