Friday, December 30, 2011

In trying to help yourself, you end up helping everyone else.

We talked about moving on. The 'how's' and the 'why's'. Cliches said again and again.
Then I remembered what helped me before all of this chaotic mess started. Surfing.

More than a sport, it helps you realize certain facts about life. You see, when one surfs, they don't surf through technique, they surf with the heart and more importantly, faith.

You watch the water. See where the swells at. Then you start paddling out to the line up. It doesn't really matter how big the waves are. You're excited for that feeling again. But being stoked doesn't happen so easily. You're faced with several factors beyond your control... the current, the wind, the waves. You wait patiently. Some swells die down before it gets to you and you paddle back out again. You wait some more. It gets difficult with the current. You feel tired, anxious. But you see a good one coming up. You take your place. Others follow. You feel the back of your board lifting as you paddle your hardest. Then you pop up. Balance and try to make it the longest ride you could have for that day.

Then you realize that while everything else is out of your hands, there is one thing you can control-- yourself. Whatever the sea gives you, you take in and you pray for the best. That when it happens, you're balanced, ready to take that ride. A well-deserved stoke.

It makes a lot of sense, Les said.
It does.

I'm still waiting at the line up. Along with others too. And while i'm tired, disheartened and alone on my board. That perfect ride will get here soon. I just need to make sure that when it happens i'm perfectly balanced.

"Be that sunset ride for me. The last one I take. The longest ride I make. And my ultimate stoke."

- Live like there's no tomorrow. Love like it's your last.

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